A Pot of Char-acter

A few sherds of a small shallow earthenware dish decorated with painted fish suggests that the fine folk of 18th century Hungate enjoyed a very different lifestyle to that endured a hundred years later.

The dish is of a type known as tin-glazed earthenware, or Delftware, a technique of pottery production introduced into England in the late 16th century. Tin-glazed earthenwares are typical of the 18th century and this one probably dates to around 1770 –1780.

This pot was almost certainly made in Liverpool where tin-glazed earthenware production began in 1710. By 1780, however, the industry was in decline but one of their remaining specialities was the production of these little pots which had a very particular purpose. This was to serve as containers for potted char, a very great delicacy.

The char, a type of salmon, is a native of Lake Windermere. These fish will grow to about 250mm in size and are related to the Arctic char found in northern waters today. One theory is that their ancestors were trapped in the lake when the glaciers retreated and they evolved in their own distinctive Cumbrian way. The delicate flavour of the pink-tinged flesh has been popular as a potted breakfast treat in the Lake District since the 16th century.

In his 'Tour through the Whole Island of Great Britain' 1724-26, Daniel Defoe remarks that "Winander Mere is famous for producing the Char-fish.... It is a curious fish, and as a Dainty, is potted and sent far and near …'

Sir Francis Colchester-Wemyss (KBE), a writer on, amongst other things, cricket, croquet and gastronomy, allowed his personal recipe for potted char to be produced in the 1940 Wine and Food Society Concise Encyclopedia of Gastronomy where it is described as 'a supreme delicacy'.

'Clean and scale the fish and cook it slowly in white wine with a few slices of onion and carrot and pieces of parsley stalk. Allow to cool, skin it and remove the fillets. Be careful to take out all the bones. Now arrange the fillets or pieces of fillet in an earthenware 'pot' and cover them with melted butter. Place pot and contents covered in a moderate oven for 20 to 30 minutes and on withdrawing add more clarified butter if required. (Fillets must be covered with butter.) Will keep for some time in a cool place'

How delicate the flavour was after the long journey from Lake Windermere to grace the tables of 18th century Londoners is questionable. Perhaps the shorter distance to York allowed the Hungate bons viveurs to savour it more as it had been intended.